Get Competition-Ready with These High Performance Shock Mods

All Traxxas TRX-4® models feature premium, scale-sized GTS shocks with threaded-aluminum bodies, X-ring seals, plated shafts, and steel hollow balls. Engineered for extreme off-road use, these shocks deliver smooth, precise damping and long-lasting performance for all types of adventures.
If miles on the trail are starting to take their toll on your shocks, the 8262 rebuild kit will refresh them back to like-new condition. On the other hand, if you want to optimize your GTS shocks for extreme-terrain crawling, you can add official Traxxas upgrade parts and a few setup tricks to make your GTS shocks “comp ready.” Follow these steps to reduce shaft resistance to the absolute minimum without compromising damping control. Here’s what you’ll need, and how to do it.
Red TRX-4 Defender
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Required Items
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  • 8263T Titanium Nitride (TiN) Shock Shafts (2)
  • 8262 GTS Shock rebuild kit (2)
  • 2362 Ultra Shock rebuild kit (2)
  • 8261 Red Shock Pistons (1)*
  • Aftermarket Items
    • 20-25 wt. Silicone shock oil
    • Seal grease
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*The TRX-4 Sport, TRX-4 Sport Unassembled Kit, and TRX-4 with All-Terrain Traxx® models already have red pistons installed.


Getting Started


1) Remove the shock from your TRX-4
Each shock is attached by two screws; simply remove them to free the shock. Note that the lower shock screw also secures the lower suspension link. Remember to reinstall the lower link when it’s time to reinstall the shock.

Remove these two screws to release the shockRemove these two screws to release the shock

2) Remove the spring
Push up on the lower spring retainer and slide it off the shock shaft via the slot in the retainer. You can now slip the spring off of the shock. Depending on your model, the springs may be marked with paint to indicate their rate (stiffness), with different rates for the front and rear shocks. Note which springs are front and rear so you can reinstall them correctly.

Color denotes spring rateColor denotes spring rate
Remove the spring retainerRemove the spring retainer

3) Empty the shock
Remove the upper shock cap by turning it counter-clockwise, and pour the oil into a container for disposal. Cycle the shock shaft up and down a few times to get all the oil out.

Cycle the shock shaft to remove all the oilCycle the shock shaft to remove all the oil

4) Remove the rod end and shock shaft
In order to remove the shaft and piston, the rod end must be removed first. Remove the rod end by unscrewing it from the shock shaft. A pair of specialized shock-shaft pliers is recommended to hold the shock shaft without marring it, but you can also use a pair of diagonal cutters to hold the shaft. Grip the shaft where it enters the rod end, so any damage that may occur to the shaft’s finish will be covered by the lower spring retainer when it is reinstalled. After removing the rod end, you can push the shock shaft up and out of the shock body.

Grip the shaft just above the rod endGrip the shaft just above the rod end
Push the shaft out of the shock bodyPush the shaft out of the shock body

5) Remove the lower cap and seals
Unscrew the lower cap, then use the shock shaft you removed in step four to push the X-ring seals and the seal spacer out of the shock body.

Unscrew the lower cap to access the sealsUnscrew the lower cap to access the seals
Remove the seals and shaft guideRemove the seals and shaft guide

6) Install the red pistons onto the TiN shock shafts
Using needle-nose pliers, snap an e-clip into the lower groove on the shock shaft, install the piston over the e-clip, then secure it with an e-clip in the remaining groove. The red pistons have a slightly smaller diameter than the stock black pistons, which results in less damping force.

Installing the pistonInstalling the piston
Install the piston between two e-clipsInstall the piston between two e-clips

What is Titanium Nitride?
The gold finish on the 8263T shock shafts isn’t just for looks; it’s a coating of Titanium Nitride (TiN), a ceramic material that hardens the surface of the shock shaft and reduces friction. TiN shafts resist scuffing and reduce seal wear, so shocks operate with less resistance and with greater time between rebuilds compared to standard chrome shafts.

7) Lubricate the seals and install into the shock body
For this step, we’ll install the fresh O-rings included with the 8262 rebuild kit, but the kit’s black seal spacer will not be used. Instead, install the white spacer included with the 2362 Ultra Shock rebuild kit. This spacer is slightly shorter than the black spacer, and compresses the seals less once installed. Lubricate the seals with a few drops of shock oil (or seal grease, see sidebar), then insert the seals into the shock body with the spacer between them. Finish by threading the lower cap back onto the shock, but leave it one full turn away from full tightness.

Pro Tip: Apply Seal Grease to the X-Rings
For maximum seal performance with minimum resistance, lubricate the X-rings with a grease specifically for suspension seals. If your hobby store doesn’t carry the specialized grease, ask for fork-seal grease at a motorcycle-accessory or bicycle store.

Install the new seals with a white spacerInstall the new seals with a white spacer
Leave the lower cap loose by one full turnLeave the lower cap loose by one full turn

OPTION: PTFE-Coated Shock Bodies

If you want the slickest possible shock action, upgrade to the optional hard-anodized, PTFE-coated GTS Shock bodies 8266. PTFE stands for Polytetrafluoroethylene, a super-slick, low-friction coating. This coating, combined with the shocks hard-anodized finish, reduces friction between the piston and shock body to an absolute minimum. 8266X PTFE-coated shock bodies

8) Reinstall the shock shaft and rod end
Apply shock oil or seal grease to the threads of the shaft, and gently insert it into the shock body and through the seals. Leaving the cap loose in step seven makes it easier to slide the shaft past the seals. After the shaft is inserted, you can fully thread the lower cap onto the body. Finish by threading the rod end back onto the shaft. As described in step four, take care not to mar the shock shaft.

Be careful not to damage the TiN finishBe careful not to damage the TiN finish

9) Fill the shock
From the factory, TRX-4 models’ shocks are filled with 30-weight silicone oil. For reduced damping force and more responsive axle articulation, fill the shock with lower-viscosity (“thinner”) shock oil, such as 20-25 weight. Follow these steps to fill the shock:

Refill the shocks with 20-25wt. oilRefill the shocks with 20-25wt. oil
How to fill and bleed shocksHow to fill and bleed shocks

Fill and seal the shock and then compress the shock shaft with the spring cup installed. If the shaft cannot compress fully, it means there is too much oil in the shock. Loosen the cap and compress the shock to bleed out excess oil.

OPTION: PTFE-Coated Hollow Balls

You’ve reduced internal shock friction to the absolute minimum—how about the friction between the hollow balls and the rod ends and caps? To free up suspension action even further, replace the stock, chrome-plated hollow balls with the 8274 PTFE-coated aluminum hollow balls. The part number includes every hollow ball required to replace the steel parts, and the slick PTFE coating lets the shocks move on the pivots with maximum ease. PTFE hollow-ball set

10) Reinstall the shocks and hit the trail!
Repeat steps 1-9 for the remaining shocks, reinstall the springs (remember to pay attention to front and rear spring placement), then reinstall your new, super-slick shocks. Don’t forget to reattach the lower suspension links when installing the shocks. On the trail, you’ll notice improved axle articulation and responsiveness to the terrain in extreme-crawling situations.

Your shock is now optimized for crawling and ready to be reinstalledYour shock is now optimized for crawling and ready to be reinstalled

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